Emma B. Andrews Journal Volume 11 1903-1904.xml

Sunday, 23d after Trinity.
	Nov. 15, 1903. 
		We left home very regretfully on Nov. 2d by the night boat. Spent four days in New York - sailed at 11 o’clock Saturday Nov. 7th on the N. German Lloyd SS. Lahn. Jean Hardy joined us in New York, and is with us. Reached Gibraltar at 3 o’clock today - 7 days and 15 hours from New York. Stopped to coal - and every one left the ship but 3 or 4 people. The Captain offered Theodore and me the bridge, where we were free from dust, and where our chairs and wraps were taken and we had a charming afternoon - so quiet and so high. The day was lovely - and we could enjoy the whole world as it lay spread before us. Under the friendly shelter of the awnings we had our tea - and Theo. napped - and when he wakened I read aloud - and we watched the sun go down over the Morocco Coast, with many lovely effects on sea and land: the sweetest of which was the bold hill on the Spanish side, with a wonderful colouring of russet green and crimson, and in the little valley below a white church and a group of buildings. A favourable passage - boat very comfortable - my two rooms so pleasant and comfy. We are due in Naples the morning of the 18th - where we catch our steamer the Barborossa for Port Said. 

Grand Hotel - Naples, Nov. 18th. Wednesday. 
		Arrived in due time at 7:30 this A.M. when the tender reached 
(page jump?) Washington! I could not credit it, and went with the startling news to Theodore, who had not noticed it. And so our bright day was turned into sadness - and our thoughts have since been with dear Mrs. Proctor, there was such devotion between them - and their last visit to us in October was so pleasant - and since then I have had several letters from him - his strong, genial, sympathetic presence was always so delightful. We think too of young John in the Phillipines so far from his mother at this time. We have been writing letters to them this evening. 

First Sunday after Christmas. 	Dec. 27. 
	27 miles. 	When I looked out of my window this morning at 6:30 I could see nothing but an impenetrable fog. The day proved absolutely still until late in the afternoon when we got a sail of an hour and anhalf. 

Monday, Dec. 28th. 
	34 miles. 	We have sailed since 10 this morning - starting from two miles the other side of Tahta 22-1/2 miles to Sohag, where we stopped a few moments to get a package of yeast from Cairo - and we are now lying two miles above Akmim. A wonderful evening in beauty and colouring! 

Tuesday, Dec. 29th. 
	30 miles.	A fair sailing day - made Balliana by 4 o’clock - stopped for mail - lots of letters - and are now (10 P.M.) 5 miles above Balliana. 

Wednesday, Dec. 30. 
	13 miles. 	I looked out of my window at 6:30 this morning and saw the sun just rising out of a clear crimson sky - not a vapour or cloud - just a big pink ball. But it was on the wrong side of the boat! As we were making the big loop between the Gebel et-Teekh, and the Gebel et Tarif just before Nag Hamadi and we were pointed almost north. The day has been endlessly beautiful - very warm - hardly a breath of wind - and the silent, gentle progress we made through the exquisite colouring - no sound except occasionally the distant minor chant of a shadoof worker. The sunset was like the sun rise - only the whole heavens were swept as it were with rosy splashes which gave place to the light of the almost full moon. No words can do justice to the beauty of such a day. 

Thursday, Dec. 31. 
	39 miles. 	We arrived at Nag Hamadi last evening too late to make the bridge - but got through without difficulty this morning at 9 o’clock. We have had a fair sailing day - and are now one mile above Keneh 

Friday, Jan. 1, 1904. 	
	19 miles. 	A warm and beautiful day - variable winds - are now two miles below Nagada. 

Saturday, Jan. 2. Luxor. 
	24-1/2 miles. 	We have worked today with all kinds of winds, creeping into Luxor as usual, and about 5:30 tying up opposite the town - it being too dark to select a permanent place. Just 21 days from Cairo. 

Jan. 3d. 2d Sunday after Xmas. 
		We found the Istar just in front of us - and Mr. Sayce came this evening to dine, and was very nice and interesting - Mr. Carter is in Aswân. Theo. and Jean went over to Medinet Habu this afternoon and took her first ride on a donkey - and was entranced with it.  was at home all the beautiful warm day. 

Tuesday, Jan. 5th. 
		Jean and I went to Luxor this morning and paid a visit to Miss Buchanan and Nubeeweya - we found them well, but the house full of visiting missionaries! Nubaweeya looking greatly improved - quite the woman now, with an air and dignity pleasant to see - what a change in that little savage! 

Wednesday, Jan. 6th. 
		Theodore, Mr. Sayce and Carter went to Del el Bahari this morning to see the new Mentuhotep temple that M. Naville discovered. Mr. Hall of the Birtish Museum is however working it, as M. Naville is ill. It is just south of Hatshepsut’s temple, and like it in its leading features - with rising terraces and colonnades - and the retaining wall runs almost parallel to here. Some beautiful objects have been found and very good work. Mr. Sayce came to lunch - and Mr. Carter in the evening to stay with us. We heard the details of the work in the Hatshepsut tomb. The last two months have been very difficult, as the rock was so hard - not more than one meter’s progress possible in a day - and each meter under these conditions costing £3. a day! 

Thursday, Jan. 7. 
		The “Scarab” arrived today - Theodore went to Karnak this morning. Mr. Sayce started for El-Kab. 

Saturday, Jan. 9th. 
		To Dêr el Bahari this afternoon - and wanted to go over to see Mr. Hall’s work - but there was such a blinding cloud of dust that came from the work of many Arabs, that we decided not to go. Reports from the tomb are that work is growing easier - the rock growing softer. 

First Sunday in Epiphany. 	Jan. 10th. 
		Mr. Hall lunched with us, and Mr. Weigall and Dr. Schweinfurth were here for tea. The “Miriam” with M. Maspero and family arrived down this morning. 

Monday, Jan. 11th. 
		We all went to Karnak this afternoon to see M. Legrain and the interesting things he has lately found at the aite of the temple of Thothmes which he has been digging into - under this site he found the battered remains of a temple of Usertesen III with most lovely fragments - large ones too - with the finest work ever found in Egypt - a strong, splendid bust in granite of Usertesen III - most individual and unique. Stopped at the Miriam on our way to tea - and found Mr. and Mrs. Bob Tytus there. 

Wednesday, Jan. 13th. 
		Mr. Newberry arrived this afternoon, and dined with us. He came up the river on Princess Henry of Rattenberg’s steamer as far as Asyût - having brought Prince Alexander of Battenberg over from England. He told us many amusing and interesting things of them. She came out for the benefit of her youngest sons health, Prince Leopold, who is a great sufferer - though only 15 years old. She has her 2 sons and daughter Princess Ena with her, and Lord and Lady William Churchill as Lord and Lady in waiting. Mr. Weigall lunched with us - and went with Theodore and Jean to Medinet Habu and Dêr el Medinet. 

Thursday, Jan. 14. 
		Mr. Newberry lunched with us. The Frasers came to see us - I had gone over there the other day with Mr. Newberry to see them, on their boat “the Strange Hathor”. I had always wanted to see this boat, it has such a singular exterior. THey are known among their friends as the “mad hatters” (Mr. and Mrs. Fraser.) The saloon was quite charming - an L-shaped room - the walls from floor to ceiling either covered with books, pictures, embroideries, mushrabya work, faience, etc. In one corner a tiny grate, with a fire burning - two doors (outside) opening on a narrow way which runs along the side of the boat - and these are sliding glass doors - and inside mushrabya doors. They have pre-empted or leased the river bank for the length of the boat - the have planted this bank, and the open door made it seem like a country cottage, looking on to a garden. As Mr. Fraser is a government official and lives here all the year, this sort of a thing is worth his while. They were however immensely pleased with the Beduin. Theodore took Jean to the races - and brought back the Sargents from Boston for tea. 

Friday, Jan. 15. 
		A cold, overcast day - with occasional drops of rain. During the night quite a sharp shower. Theodore, Jean and Mr. Newberry went over to see Mr. Hall at Dêr el Bahari - and Jean had a fall from her donkey when he stumbled, but was not hurt. Mr. Newberry is now staying with us. 

Saturday, Jan. 16. 
		A day much like yesterday - except that it has been warmer. Jean, Theo., and Mr. Weigall went this afternoon to see some of the private tombs. Quite a rain this evening and a very sharp clap of thunder. The Royal steamer arrived today - and is tied up at the extreme verge of our island. The town and boats gay with bunting. 

Second Sunday after Epiphany. 	Jan. 17. 
		We had a disturbed night - a veritable hurricane. We were covered with sand - and our fine long steamer much damaged. The men were up most of the night. Mr. Carter to dinner. Jean and Theo. to Karnak in the afternoon. 

Wednesday, Jan. 20th. 
		A number of friends turned up yesterday. Mrs. Rathbone and two young ladies from London arrived on the Ramses. The Kirkbrides from Cairo and Mrs. Milne. We all went over to the tombs of the Kings this morning - and Mrs. Milne, Jean, Theo, and I lunched on the little terrace in front of the tomb of Thothmes IV. I had an entrancing ride in my chair - and it was a perfect day. Mr. Newberry and Mr. Carter much occupied with royalties now. 

Thursday, Jan. 21st. 
		We all rode into Luxor this morning - made visits - shopped etc. Jean and I went to see Miss Buchanan. Went to Yussef Hassans garden - where Mr. Newberry is going to entertain the Royal party at an Arab dinner tonight. The Princess and her children are coming here tomorrow - in a perfectly informal way to see the boat. 

Friday, Jan. 22d. 
		The Royal party departed suddenly for Aswân this morning - as the young Prince grew so much worse. He has the same unusual disease that his [illegible], for whom he was named, the Duke of Albany, suffered from - a weakness of the blood vessels. This poor boy, when Mr. Newberry says, is very bright and sweet, has been in bed for days, suffering much. 

Monday, Jan. 25. 
		A cool day with strong NW. wind. Theo, Newberry and Jean went out to visit the private tombs this afternoon. Robert Trefussis arrived from Aswân. He is Lady Clinton’s son. Theo invited him for a visit. M. and Mme. Maspero, with their friend Mme. Castellani dined with us. 

Wednesday, Jan. 27. 
		Raphael Pumpelly and his friend Mr. Warner of Boston called. He reports his father in St. Petersburg having some difficulty about their concessions for digging in Turkestan. I haven’t seen Raphael for years - he has developed from a lanky, ill-mannered boy, into a tall, lancé fellow, with excellent manners. Theo and Robert went over to Medinet Habou. 

Thursday, Jan. 28. 
		Theo took Robert, Raphael and Mr. Warner over to Der el Bahari this afternoon. 

Friday, Jan. 29. 
             We have had a tremendous gale all day from the SW. which blew over our big sand island in a way that deluged us with sand - and the atmosphere being full of it, the sun could be seen only as a ghost of a sun. Our awnings down on that side, made the boat dismal. Theo has a bad cold - and could not go yesterday to see the Fred Stimsons who arrived at the Grand Hotel two days ago. Jean and I went yesterday. Mr. Stimson has been very ill, and was sent out to Egypt. He is feeble with a trained nurse - but on a chaise longue in the garden. The new Mrs. Stimson very nice and charming - they came over to tea this afternoon, in spite of wind. 
             
Septuagesima Sunday, Jan. 31. 
		Jean, Robert and Theo went to Karnak this afternoon, Carter and Newberry to lunch. Mr. and Mrs. Fraser, of the “Strange Hathor” dined with us. The accounts from the tomb are that some fragments of pots have been found in the big chamber which was reached a few days since. 

Monday, Feb. 1st. 
		Theo with Jean and Robert, Carter and Newberry, went over to Biban el Mouluk for the day and lunched there - they report encouraging accounts of the tomb. 

Tuesday, Feb. 2d.
		Jean, Robert and I went over to Carters to dine and see Medinet Habou by moonlight. It was quite too beautiful. The full moon rose just after we got into the plain. The dinner was good - and afterwards the rest walked, I on my donkey, to Medinet - and walked about it. The others went to the top of the pylon - while I sat at its foot in the big outer court and enjoyed the beauty of it all. I think its great pylon and its proportions the finest in Egypt. Carter rode home with us, at least to the sands. Theo. still has a cold, and did not venture out. 

Wednesday, Feb. 3. 
		Raphael Pumpelly with his two friends Warner and Kidder of Boston, started for Aswân in a felucca. They stopped a moment on passing, to get some things I gave them - some tinned tongues, cheese, jame etc. They looked very jolly as they went off - with an American flag at their mast. Theo Jean and Robert with Mr. Newberry went to see Hui’s tomb, and stopped for tea with Carter. The reports from tomb today, tell of the tunnel being made from end to end in the big chamber filled with the debris of fallen ceilings etc. and no passage found - they begin tomorrow on right hand side, hoping to find an outlet. It now takes just 20 minutes steady climbing from the entrance to this chamber to the mouth of the tomb - there is not one foot of level space Carter says in the whole corridor - and as it is over 700 ft. long and has a depth of 350 ft. it is enough to daunt the stoutest heart. 
[page jump - page 2:]
the deck, we found it densely packed with the Italian steerage passengers - there were said to be 1000 of them. Through this steaming, reeking mass we found our way, piloted by two soldiers and Mr. Vickers; it was awful. I found one woman with a baby in her arms, almost fainting with fatigue - I took some of her things and she kept close behind me, and between us, the baby escaped pressure, and under our wing she entered the Custom House and I left her resting safely, wishing I had some restoratives to give her. But Amelie and my bag were far behind and unapproachable. Found letters and parcels for us at the Hotel. We are staying over night, the Barbarossa our boat not starting until tomorrow at 11 o’clock. Took Jean to the Museo this morning. Found the Pompeian rooms closed - many repairs and changes, and great improvements going on. Weather very bad - tempestuous and heavy rains. Vesuvius not to be seen. We made a good run in the Lahn - and barring no deck cabins, were most comfy. This is our run - 361. 412. 396. 388. 405. 404. 410. 410. 411. 422 - then Naples, - the morning of the 11th day. 

Shepheards Hotel - Nov. 24th 1903. 
		Egypt and Cairo again - reached Port Said at 8 o’clock on Sunday evening the 22d. Coaled - and did not get off until one o’clock A.M. Very warm. We had 90 passengers for Egypt - anchored off Ismailya at 9 o’clock yesterday - did not disembark until 12 o’clock, so much luggage and so many passengers. Waited until 2 o’clock at station - reached Cairo at 5 o’clock. In our usual charming rooms. Cairo full of people - something unprecedented at this season - we found the same warm greetings from all sides - went to the dahabeah this morning, Abdul iII in bed. We feel some concern about him. 

1st Sunday in Advent. 	Nov. 29th. 
		A week of visiting and getting the boat ready. Among our fellow passengers on the Barbarossa were a Mr. and Mrs. Dennis coming out to Egypt - he to devote himself to Egyptology. They are from Baltimore - youngish people and very nice. He has been preparing himself by study at the Johns Hopkins - and his whole heart and soul are in it. He expects to join the Petrie camp. Also an English family on board, Lord and Lady Clinton - with a Doctor, a Mental Healer (whatever that is) but that is what they call the young woman who was constantly with Lord Clinton. He is an old man, and out of his mind, and seems to be unconscious of everything around him. They too, came to Egypt - and intend passing the winter at Aswân. The Quibells dined with us the other evening - and we lunched with them today - and met for the first time Dr. Grenfell and Dr. Hunt - such interesting people always together in work and life. One is hardly mentioned without the other. There was also a Mr. Loat, who lives near Oxford - and has been studying the birds and fishes of the Soudan for two or three years. He had the most entrancing stories about them, and hippos and all the African animals. We sat in the little garden under a big tree, and stayed to tea. All our Nile friends are gone up the river. Mr. Sayce whom we saw on the Istar the day before he sailed. He is going to join Somers-Clarke and some men at El Kab, where they are going to thoroughly excavate this winter, being backed by Lionel Phillips, the South African millionaire. All the land about the site, has been conceded by the Khodive to a syndicate for developing natron - and whatever of interest and value remaining undiscovered on this very ancient ground, must be found and dug up, before this syndicate go to work there. The Birds on the Zenet-el-Nil started up two weeks ago. Abdul still very ill - we think he ought to go to the Hospital - but all these natives are so afraid of the hospital. 

2d Sunday in Advent. 	Dec. 6th.
		We have had a busy and anxious week. Jean was not able to get up on Monday - and as she had not been quite herself since we landed I decided we ought to have the Doctor. Sent for Dr. Milton - who found her temperature 104 - with great pains in the back and legs. He thought she ought to be very carefully watched for a day or two, as it was impossible to say what these symptoms might lead to - so in two hours after his visit, the room next hers was vacated, and a very presentable English nurse was established there. Fortunately the evening brought a violent fit of sickness, after which the fever left her, the night was good - she was decidedly better the next day, and continued improving. Miss Bowdon proved such a good nurse and companion, that we begged her to stay her week out, and she is still here; it has been a great relief to me, and a help and comfort to Jean. Jean and she have been spending most of the day in the garden. We had however, one very anxious day - with the possibility of typhoid before us! At the dahabeah this afternoon - Baroness Trentenberg came to tea - and young Mr. Edgar came in too. We lunched on Friday with the Dennis’s - Lady Clinton and her daughter being there. Unfortunately the good north wind which has been blowing ever since we arrived, stopped blowing yesterday - and the cold south wind has raged since. Yesterday Lady Clinton and her two daughters came in from the Mena House and had tea with us on the Beduin, and inspected the boat with much interest. 

Monday, Dec. 7th. 
		Came on board today to stay. Miss Bowdon coming with us and remaining to tea - very pleased indeed to see a dahabeah. She helped Jean settle herself - and then we sent her back to the Victoria Nursing Home, in the street of Mohamet Ali, in the carriage. This Home belongs to Dr. Milton - and here he has his private hospital - to which place Abdul has been removed. Miss Bowdon has been most helpful in making all the arrangements - and Abdul will be under her care - and she will give us news of him from time to time, and she and Dr. Milton will have a special interest in him. Our first evening in this quiet little home is so good! 

Tuesday, Dec. 8th. 
		The strong south wind still blows, and no hope of sailing. Theodore and I went in town today - and to the hospital to see Abdul - my first visit to him - though Theo. has seen him before. The poor, good fellow looked fearfully ill - and was so glad to see me, that he quite lost his self-possession. We saw Miss Bowdon who says that Dr. Milton does not at all accept the serious view of the native doctor. Theo. and Jean drove out to the Pyramids this afternoon - Jean returning in raptures. 

Wednesday, Dec. 9th. 
		One of Cook’s tugs brought us through the bridge at one o’clock - to our old landing at Ghizeh - south wind has blown all day. Mr. Quibell and Mrs. Milne came down this evening and played bridge. 

Thursday, Dec. 10th. 
		South wind all day - walked with Theo. and Nan up to the Quibells - found only Mrs. Milne at home. 

Friday, Dec: 11th.
		A cold day with S. wind until 4 P.M. when it was succeeded by a light north wind - which looks hopeful for tomorrow. Theo. was at the hospital this morning - saw Dr. Milton and Abdul: the latter feeling a little better - the doctor says it is impossible for him to pronounce now upon Abdul’s state - but he positively disagrees with the diagnosis and treatment of the native doctor, so that we feel somewhat encouraged. Theo. telegraphed the other day to Luxor for Hanein, the excellent servant Mr. Newberry has had so long - to ask if he could take Abdul’s place - he replied yes - and arrived today. 

Saturday, Dec. 12th. 
		At last we are off! the south wind stopped at 2 o’clock and in a short time we were off in a light north wind, and are tied up above old Cairo - making 4 miles.

3d Sunday in Advent. Dec. 13th. 
	27 miles.	A beautiful day - of strange cloud effects - are tied up at the Kafr el Ayat. 

Monday, Dec. 14. 
	25 miles. 	Stopped for mail - and for changing the sail in some way - stayed all night. 

Tuesday, Dec. 15. 
	18 miles. 	Made Benisoef at 3:30 - where we stopped again for the night and for mail - found a number of letters. 

Wednesday, Dec. 16. 
	5 miles. 	Very cold this morning - and light head wind all day. Polling and tracking we are 5 miles above Benisoef. At this same date last year, we were within 2 miles of our present landing. 

Thursday, Dec. 17. 
	28 miles. 	We began tracking this morning early - the wind came at 11 - and grew stronger bringing us to Maghagah at 7 o’clock. There was a wonderful sunset - like a glorified Aurora borealis in softest reds and yellow - the rays all sprang from an elongated disc - most lovely. 

Friday, Dec. 18.
	13 miles. 	A very uneventful day - we are lying at Sheik Faddl [?]. This part of the river seems to be fatal to us. We always stick for days along here. 

Saturday, Dec. 19. 
	10 miles. 	Tracked almost the whole day and are now 5 miles below Golossaneh - cold. 

Sunday, Dec. 20. 4th in Advent.
	27-1/2 miles. 	Minia. 	Ramadan ended last night - and we had the formal greetings from all the men - and there was a general interchange of “kullo sana we enta tayibo”. We are always glad when it is over on account of the men. We tracked the early part of the day, then a fair wind came. A dahabeah in tow, flying the American flag was seen coming up all the morning - but she did not reach us until after 2 o’clock - and then in order to pass us, she had to put on all her sails - which is unusual. If we had had anything of a wind she could not have done it. She was the Cheops. 

Monday, Dec. 21. 
	6 miles. 	A perfectly grey almost windless day. Cold. This whole neighbourhood has been filled with pleasure seekers - hundreds of them - coming across from Minia to the great necropolis. It seems strange to call them pleasure seekers -but they behaved like such - a noisy crowd - singing, shouting, shooting etc. -but we are in what is called “Little Beiram” -the 3 days following Ramadan. The “GReater Beiram” is 70 days later. 

Tuesday, Dec. 22. 
	13 miles. 	A day of little wind - tracking and polling, - the river like glass much of time - a thick mist this morning which did not entirely disappear all day - and is thick again this evening. The warmest day we have had - are about 4-4-1/2 miles above Beni Hassan. 

Wednesday, Dec. 23d. 
	4 miles. 	We have had a fairly hot day - with a strong head wind at times. The men have worked hard - tracking polling and pulling to anchors. We are now tied to a sand bank near Rhodah. 

Thursday, Dec. 24. Xmas Eve. 
	34-1/2 miles. 	A high north wind most of the night - and at 7 o’clock we pulled away from our island and sailed away finely, bringing up opposite Rhodah, where we were obliged to stop and get a basket of clean clothes from Shepheards. Since then we have made a good days run and are lying just above Gebel Abu Feda. The wind at times very strong and fitful - a little rain fell at one time. This seems a strange Xmas over “We dwell within the strangers land, and strangely falls our Xmas eve”. 

Christmas - Friday.
	22 miles. 	A most perfect day - and a good sailing one. We passed the great Gebel Abu Feda chain from one end to the other - a charming sail. Our usual Christmas this morning - which much amused Jean - the men all coming in for their presents, - they had a sheep too - and a big pudding with raisins in it for their lunch. 

Saturday, Dec. 26th. 
	36 miles. 	We reached Asyût this morning about 10:30. We landed, going for the mail and the market, and Jean and I took Hanein and drove into town - through the bazaar and about the town. A most delicious air about. We sailed through the canal lock very well this morning - much excitement, but no hitch. We had such a mail! And after reading our letters and many of our papers, I went to my room with one of the Paris Heralds in my hand, feeling very thankful that we had good news from home and friends - when on the first page I saw the startling headlines of the sudden death of the Hon. John R. Proctor of 

[page jump]
[illegible]
		Theo has not been off the boat for two days - having a bad sore throat. Mrs. Stimson and the two girls came to lunch today - Robert went with Jean and Lorna to Medinet Habou. 

Saturday, Feb. 6. 
		A warm day - Theo still confined to boat - Carter and Newberry to lunch. The Stimson girls came over at 4 - and went with Robert to Der el-Bahari. Carter came back late in the afternoon and said that a staircase had been found leading down from the chamber. 

Tuesday, Feb. 9. 
		We have had two warm days - and yesterday another SW. sand storm - and our awnings down. It is cooler today - Theo still with a cold. Mr. Newberry lunched here. Yesterday they had cleared the staircase, and a short corridor in which they found several fragments of a large diorite vase, with inscriptions as here given which Mr. Newberry pronounces “the first indisputable fragments with the name of the Queen Hatshepsut”. 
[drawing, page 21 of pdf]

Wednesday, Feb. 10. 
		The two Miss Collins from Edinbourg and Miss Buchanan came to lunch. A very pleasant visit. Miss Buchanan and Nubaweeya were here the other day to tea. 

Friday, Feb. 12.
		Theo and Robert went over to Biban el Muluk this morning, and met Carter and Newberry there. They took the camel and the lunch baskets. Carter and Newberry went into the tomb - as the Reis had reported to Carter the evening before that an unsealed doorway had been found at the end of the corridor, very much blocked with dèbris. Newberry did not go to the bottom, being overcome by the foul air, and emerged after a time looking very ill. Carter went on to the end, and found the room into which the door opened, choked with rubbish to within 2 feet of the ceiling. He pushed his head into the opening, but found the air so foul, that he had to retreat to one of the upper parts of the corridor and stop awhile - then he went back and made a hurried reconnoitre, which revealed a large room with what appeared to be other chambers opening from it. Theo said that when Carter emerged from the tomb, he was a horrid object - dripping and wet from the heat, with a black dust over his face and hands - he was very sick too, and had to lie down for sometime. He said the air was filled with a suffocating odour, like ammonia, and that great masses of black stuff like black stalactites were hanging from the ceiling. It is hard business for him and the workmen. A council of war was then held, and as evidently it will take some time to clear these chambers Theo decided to go on to Aswân tomorrow which we are now ready to do. 

Saturday, Feb. 13. 
	5 miles. 	near Erment. 	Started about 10 this morning - in light south wind, and rowing and tracking have made about 4 miles below Erment. 

Quinquagesima Sunday, Feb. 14.
	4 miles. 	Bob Tytus came on board about 7 this morning en route for Luxor. I did not see him. It has been cold and windy - a white atmosphere, filled with sand! not a bit agreeable.

Monday, Feb. 15. 
	46-1/2 miles. 	A very favourable day - and we have had a steady sail and are now 10 miles below Edfu. 

Tuesday, Feb. 16. 
	23-1/2 miles. 	Again a fine wind that brought us to Edfu at one o’clock. Jean and Robert, under convoy of Jones, spend 2 hours at the temple. Started again, and sailed until 7. The day has been warm and beautiful. 

Ash-Wednesday, Feb. 17.
	51 miles. 	After a day of fine sailing we went bump on to a sand bank with a tremendous crash - fortunately we had just furled the bellicone or aft sail, or some harm might have come to us. As it was, there was confusion down stairs, and some small pieces of furniture overturned. Two of the pots of freesias went smash and a lovely little Arum lilly which had just reached perfection on its stately stem, went on to the floor and broke its back. We tied up at 6:30 - 3 miles from Aswan - after a lovely day. 

Aswan - Feb. 18th - Thursday. 
		We pulled up in a good wind to our last years resting place, on a little island opposite the Cataract hotel - and went over to see the Stimsons -he looking much better. Mr. Sayce and Mr. Fraser called. Robert went over to see his family - Lady Clinton has been in camp opposite the Savoy Hotel all winter - but has just broken camp, preparatory to going down to the Mena House. Lord Clinton is at the Savoy - with his Doctor and Nurse. Went to see Mr. Sayce and had tea there - and called on the Frasers. 

Friday, Feb. 19th. 
		We all went over to Philae this morning, and took Mildred and Lorna Stimson - took over our own lunch, and had it in the Rest House at the head of the Canal. Day has been very warm - and I was delighted to reach home again. Hassan’s mother came as usual today for her baksheesh and gifts - and Imam turned up too for his - and the children of several of our old sailors had to be thought of and remembered, and now at last the day is finished! 

Saturday, Feb. 20th. 
		Mr. Carter arrived yesterday, and reported the tomb making good progress - some other fragments had been found, with the cartouches of the Queen. Went to the hotel and made some visits. The Stimsons all came to tea - he so much better. Miss Alice Longfellow and her friend Miss Curtis also came - the former having had a letter of introduction to me from Mrs. Goodwin of Boston. When they had all gone, we took Mildred and rowed around the island and back to her hotel. An enchanting evening so still, and warm and dry. I love Aswân, in spite of its new big hotels and steamers - such a delicious climate - and wonderful scenery. Theo took Mildred up to the hotel, and encountered Newberry who had just arrived. He is the guest of Princess Henry of Battenburg - for the Royal Arms of England have been floating from one of the towers of the Cataract hotel ever since we came. Mr. Sayce dined with us - and we had such a pleasant evening. He interested me very much talking of Coptic - Byzantine and Celtic Art - and told me about the “Book of Kells” of which I have never heard - and which I intend to investigate. The Encyclopedia which we have on board says, “that Kells (originally Keulis) is an ancient town of County Meath, Leicester, Ireland, situated on the Blackwater 26 miles by rail from Dragheda. Among several very interesting antiquities there, is the house of St. Columba, a round tower, and 3-4 stone crosses. Kells was made the centre of a bishops see in 809 - this was united to the see of Meath in the 13th century. A manuscript copy of the gospels called the Book of Kells, is beautifully executed with coloured Celtic ornamentation, and is believed to be the work of the 9th century. It is now preserved in the Library of Trinity College, Dublin. Mr. Sayce also told us of the work this year at El Kab, where he has been most of the winter. It was intended to be exhaustive and to finish the excavation of this ancient site. They were disappointed in the results - shafts sunk in the temple, showed work of the 18 dynasty - under this, potteries of the III dynasty, showing a likeness to the so-called early Cretan forms - under these were found walls of pre-dynastic times. We get off tomorrow. 

First Sunday in Lent. Feb. 21. 
	20 miles. 	We started about 10 o’clock - in a very light wind, under fire of all the eyes of the Cataract people on the verandah above us - and there was much waving of hankerchiefs between us. We are about 6 miles above Kom Ombo - the night warm and beautiful. 

Monday, Feb. 22. 
	26 miles. 	Started at 7 and reached Kom Ombo at 9. Found the Birds lying here - and exchanged a few words in passing. Went up to the Temple, and got away at 10:30 - a very hot day. Tied up at 7 P.M. - 5 miles below Silsilis. The two dahabeas “[illegible]” and “Nekht-Heb” passed us bound up. 

Tuesday, Feb. 23. 
	52 miles. 	We had a nice little S. breeze much of the time this hot day - a great relief to the men. Are lying 1 mile below Esneh. We had noticed a rather ominous bank of clouds to the north - and just the moment we pulled up, the gale struck us, and it is still howling. 

Wednesday, Feb. 24. 
		Have not stirred today - great wind - air full of sand. Sun mostly obscured. Once in a while a pale shadowy disk. The others went to the Temple. Amelie, Jones and little Billy went for a walk back into the country - and said they found it most beautiful - with splendid crops. 

Thursday, Feb. 25. 
	31-1/2 miles. 	Began rowing at 6:30 and now at 8 P.M. are lying within 3 miles of Luxor. We have passed along one of the most beautiful stretches of the river today. 

Friday, Feb. 26. 
		Arrived at 7 this morning. I so enjoyed the lovely sight of the splendid Theban hills as we approached. I saw it all from my window before I got up. Theo and Robert rode over to Carters house - he is not yet back from Aswân. Jean and I went over to the Scarab to tea. 

Saturday, Feb. 27. 
		Mr. Newberry turned up again this morning - and came over from Luxor with Theo for lunch. He is very full of a desert journey he is going to make with the Royal party. They all come down from Aswân except the young Prince and his doctor, who stays there, on Monday, and go off their donkeys immediately, for an hour and a half to Medimut where their caravan is encamped. They go to Kosseir on the Red Sea, and will be gone in 14 days. Mahommed Salah is their dragoman. He was here last night in great glee, telling us about it. He has the whole charge of it and is well accustomed to these expeditions. He has 45 camels, as well as donkeys and a number of tents. I should so like such a journey! Theo and Robert went to Karnak this afternoon and Jean and I went to have tea with Newberry at the Luxor Hotel. Carter arrived from Aswân in time to join us. 

Second Sunday in Lent, Feb. 28. 
		Mr. Carter and Newberry and Mr. Blue the head engineer of the Aswân Barrage, and the Asyût dam, came to lunch. They had been over to the tombs of the kings and Carter had been down in the tomb - and reported that the sarcophagus of Hatshepsut and of Thotmes I had been found in the chamber. 

Monday, Feb. 29. 
		A warm, calm day. Mr. and Mrs. Murch and Jimmie came to tea with us - and stayed until it was quite dark. They report as we had been told that there is a case of measles in Miss Buchanan’s school, in fact her assistant has them - and they have been and are in quarantine. Bob Tytus and Theo went over to Carters to see the fragments found in the tomb. Mr. and Mrs. Chamberlain came up in a private steamer two days ago, and Carter has been constantly busy with them. 

Tuesday, March 1st. 
		Theo went over early this afternoon to Biban Mouluk by appointment to meet Mr. and Mrs. Chamberlain and visit the Tombs with them. In fact he took over tea for them - and Jones and the camel with an elaborate tea went over. The day has been very warm - they came back late in the splendour of the full moon. Mr. Carter came to dinner and remained the night. 

Wednesday, Mar. 2d. 
		A howling wind and sandstorm has been upon us all day - our canvas on one side down  - and boat dismal. Sir William Preece, the eminent electrician and his daughters came to lunch, and stayed most of the afternoon and Mr. Carter for dinner and all night. 

Thursday, Mar. 3d. 
		Went over to Carters all of us for tea, and had such a pleasant visit. 

Friday, Mar. 4th. 
		A very busy day - Theo, Jean and I went over early to Karnak to see the wonderful things Monsieur Le Grain has been finding lately. There is a “hole” one might say, perhaps 50 feet square, or more, which he discovered this year - it lies just at the corner formed by the pylon of Amenhotep, and the wall on which the story of Pentaur is written. Here he has found and been taking out all winter the most wonderful things. He showed me today a little exquisite status in basalt - seated about a foot high, which he had taken out that morning, and which he told me was the 97th statue, big and little which he had taken out. It is more or less filled by infiltration, with water, and in this hundred or more Arabs and boys were grubbing - and hauling up stones with tackle etc. Some splendid great stones with exquisitely wrought hieroglyphs and inscriptions of Amenhotep I have been taken out almost unbroken - and laid together, having probably formed a chapel of that king. It is supposed that in some dangerous emergency, all these things were concealed in this “cache” for they were not carelessly put there - and have come out almost unharmed. The most beautiful thing I ever saw of its kind in Egyptian art, had been taken up to his own house - Le Grain’s - a kneeling figure about 4 ft. high, in purest alabaster, and leaning with both hands on a stela. Its beauty, finish and modeling were almost Greek. It represents Ramses III. Le Grain has certainly had a wonderful success. Then we galloped madly back to town, for the donkeys are so fresh, and stopped at the Murches for a farewell visit, and a pleasant one. Then to the Luxor Hotel to ask the Misses Collins to tea this afternoon - and Mrs. and Miss Coats - and home a little late for lunch. They all came and we had a pleasant afternoon. After they went, Mr. Livermore of Boston called - then came Mr. Carter - with latest news of the tomb - and finally said goodbye until he comes down to us at Cairo, and stays until we leave. This is the sketch of the burial chamber as it now is - tomorrow they begin to work on No. 5 - Mr. Carter thinks it may take until May to clear it entirely - and to get up the sarcophagi and other things. He reports these and a fine canopic box to be made of crystalline red sandstone, beautifully polished and inscribed. 
[diagram of sarcophagus: page 32 of pdf] 
	A.B. lid and sarcophagus of the Queen. 
	C.D. lid and sarcophagus of Thotmes I. 
	E. Canopic box of the Queen (lid missing) 
Chamber 4 now cleared and the men are starting on the small side chamber 5
		Feb. 4, 1904. 

Saturday, Mar. 5. 
	36-1/2 miles. 	We got off at 9 o’clock in almost a calm - which lasted most of the day. We had the usual sad company of people to say goodbye - and many fluttering farewells from the Scarab as we passed, and from the Murchs as we floated past. Sailed until after dark - a thing I always think very foolish, as we often come to grief - as this evening when we struck the sand, and had hard work to get off. 

Third Sunday in Lent, Mar. 6th. 
	4 miles. 	Although we began rowing at 7 we made but little progress and gave it up about 9 o’clock and lay at a high bank until late in the evening we pulled across to the opposite bank - it has been a calm and pleasant day to me. 

Monday, Mar. 7th. 
	3 miles. 	We made about 3 miles this morning when we were driven to the bank - a low pleasant one covered with the ripening barley - and beyond fields of lovely great poppies in every shade of colour. I took a walk with Jones and one of the sailors this morning through the fields, and along the banks of a canal. Theodore and Jean went to Denderah this afternoon - a ride of about 4 miles. The wind has been strong all day - but the air delicious and life-giving. The air is still full of dust however, though today the sun shone warmly. Keneh lies just in front of us - but the mountains are not yet visible through the dust clouded atmosphere. 

Tuesday, Mar. 8th. 
	15 miles. 	Started early - but anchored for the day at 10 P.M. 

Wednesday, Mar. 9th. 
	13 miles. 	Are about 2-3 miles above Kasr es Said. 

Thursday, Mar. 10. 
	one mile 	The gale continues - we made one mile during a slight intermission this morning. 

Friday, Mar. 11. 
	1/2 miles 	The wind has not changed except to veer to the south-west - it increases in force almost every afternoon about 4 o’clock. The big mountain mass of Gebel et-Tarif has been in sight for 3 days. We are lying at a very high bank, which partly protects us from the wind. It has so increased in violence since 6 o’clock that extra stakes and cables have been put out. All the deck furniture is massed together - and the heavy rugs which are always piled at night on the divans, are tied down with ropes. The men could have no awning over them tonight. These days of inaction are always very trying to them. We hope to make the Nagh Hamadi bridge tomorrow! 

Saturday, Mar. 12. 
	5-1/2 miles. 	We could not venture leaving our last nights berth until after 6 this morning - when we managed to get across the river - and strike a strong current near shore, the men walked along holding the poles against the side of the boat, thus keeping her off from the shore to which the east wind constantly drove her - then they pulled to anchor across the river, and towed us opposite and beyond Hu - and tonight we can see some of the Nagh Hamadi electric lights and hope to pass the bridge tomorrow at 8:30 when it opens for an hour. Two dahabeas we do not know appeared this morning, and are near us waiting also for the bridge - a strong east wind still. 

Sunday, 4th in Lent - March 13. 
	7 miles. 	Got through the bridge this morning just as it opened at 8:30. We continued until 3 o’clock to fight the strong n. wind when we tied up. This is the 8th day of it. 

Monday, Mar. 14. 
	19 miles. 	A rather better day - we drew up a mile above Girga about 6 - we will stop to see Mr. and Mrs. Lythgoe at their camp just below Girga, tomorrow. 

Tuesday, Mar. 15. 
	24-1/2 miles. 	We drew up opposite the camp before breakfast, and intended walking up to it, as soon as we had finished it. But before it was ready, a man arrived with a note from Lythgoe saying they had been in quarantine on that side for 10 days - on account of 50 fatal cases of bubonic plague in a village two miles from them! that the quarantine that day had been lifted - and that he would come down and talk to us from the bank. When he appeared we of course made him come in. It seems that he had written and telegraphed to us at Nagh Hamadi and Balliana - Mrs. L. had gone to Cairo a week before under strong protest. It was such a hot morning and already so late, that we decided not to go up to the camp - though I was very anxious to see the fine Coptic things lately found. Sohag. 

Wednesday, Mar. 16. 
	50 miles. 	A warm, khamseeny day - with light south wind, before which with the current we came along finely - it is delightful sailing this way. We have been on deck under the awnings most of the day - near Aboutig. 

Thursday, Mar. 17. 
	8 miles. 	Strong head winds today, for a change. It is comforting to think that a tug starts up today from Cairo to meet us!  Else, we would not be able to reach Cairo on the 26th. 11 miles above Asyût. 

Friday, Mar. 18. 
	40 miles. 	Another good day of light S. wind. Reached Asyût at 8:30 - passed the bridge without trouble, but with the usual excitement in the lock. Very hot today - we are lying opposite the beginning of the great mountain chain of Abu Feda and the Ramses III is just across from us. Her electric lights look strangely, against those dim great cliffs. 

Saturday, Mar. 19. 
	52-1/2 miles, 	15 by sail-	38-1/2 by tug. 
		Light south wind today - about 12 our tug put in its unexpected appearance. We were not looking for it until day after tomorrow. The Capt. and sailors knew nothing of it having been ordered, and their astonishment was great when she pulled up. The men gladly put away their oars this hot day. At 3 we reached Beni-Hassan - and Jean had the courage to go to the tombs with Jones. They did not stay long, it was so hot - and came back with Mr. Garstang and to our amazement, with Baron v. Bissing - who had come up to decide upon the division of this years spoils with Mr. Garstang. The Baron had his bag and valise, and we gladly brought him along with us. For a week past, we have been going through such beautiful country - such rich crops - barley ripening - wheat high and green - blossoming crops - and everywhere the larks singing among them. There is a tiny little crescent of a moon made her appearance last night. Opposite Minia. 

Fifth Sunday in Lent, March 20. 
	83-1/2 miles. 	A very uncomfortable day of heat - a good south wind too all the way - until late in the afternoon. These last few days of heat and haze have seemed very like a mild Khamseen - and are rather oppressive - and such singular colouring - and no sunshine. A pallid atmosphere - and desert, rocks and river a sepia brown - with the trees and crops a vivid green, almost lurid green. At one sport, a mass of white and mauve poppies standing in a row amongst the green bearded wheat, was really too lovely. We are lying opposite Benisoef. 

Monday, March 21. 
	58 miles. 	Bedrasheyn. The wind blew hard and cool all day - we drew here a little after 2 o’clock - and sent the tug “Anubis” on to Cairo. It was the best tug and the best Captain we have ever had. Theron, the Baron and Jean took donkeys and rode as far as the Ramesis colussus. 

Bedrasheyn - Tuesday, Mar. 22. 
	All went off to Sakkara for the day - I in my chair with two excellent donkeys. It was a dark cool day, with high wind - just such a day as last year when we were here - but that was at the beginning of the winter - and now this richly cultivated country is brilliantly green with crops - the wheat in full head. We lunched as usual at Mariettes house on the terrace, which was dismally cold, and we were covered with sand. Unfortunately Mr. Weigall who is working there had elected to go to Cairo for the day, so we missed him. v. Bissing is publishing some of the Sakkara tombs and Weigall is doing the photographing - he has been here all winter, and the work will take yet 5 years to complete it. After lunch we went to the tomb of Ka-gem-na, which I had never seen before. V. Bissing has had this lighted from above, as Ti’s tomb is lighted, and the very charming decoration can be well seen. This tomb was discovered in 1893. Then we went to the street of Tombs, discovered by Loret in 1899 - and found it very interesting. The others went down to Meri’s tomb, but I started home. V. Bissing took the 8:40 train to Cairo. 

Wednesday, Mar. 23. 
	6 miles. 	We started early, and got about opposite Tura, when we were obliged to anchor in mid stream and there we lay until 6 o’clock P.M. The wind blowing a gale all day. We had 2 anchors out and the waves were really big. 

Thursday, Mar. 24th. 
		We found a gentle south wind this morning, which brought us easily down to Cairo at 8 o’clock - and had to wait until 11:30 for the opening of the bridge. So we landed and went to the Museum - met Mrs. Metcalfe in the Gold Room - and promised to dine with her tomorrow at Shepheards. Saw Newberry for a few moments. Got through the bridge with much excitement, and with a large audience - as the wind was strong and from the side. Came to the Ghezireh Palace Landing. 

Friday, March 25. 
		Just home from dining with Mrs. Metcalfe. Not many people at Shepheards - and how dreary it looked - and how thankful we were to get home. Spent the morning shopping - and to the races in the afternoon - where we were almost frozen - and again glad to get home. Dr. and Mrs. Campbell called. 

Saturday, Mar. 26. 
		Another really cold day - we spent the morning at the Museum, where we fell in with the Baron, and brought him home to luncheon. In the afternoon we went to the Campbells - and then to see some lovely Arab glass - and other things at Kitycas’s - we are now busy getting ready for packing - and how I hate to leave this pleasant little, quiet home! 

Sunday before Easter - Mar. 27. 
		Indoors all day - Theo and Jean went to the Zoo this afternoon. Mr. Newberry here to tea. 

Monday, Mar. 28th. 
		To the Campbells to dine. Came this afternoon to the Ghezireh Hotel. Very busy all the morning packing, arranging etc. Mr. Carter arrived. 

Tuesday, Mar. 29. 
		Drove out to the Pyramids - all of us - stopped a moment at the Mena House, and spoke to Lady Clinton and her daughter and Robert, with whom we were to take tea. Then we visited the Reisner camp, saw Mrs. R., Mrs. Lythgoe and Mr. R. Mrs. Lythoe went back to the hotel with us for lunch - and we also had Robert. Saw the Misses Collins, Mrs. Bruce, Mr. and Mrs. Dennis - and after sitting about in the usual sleepy fashion, we mounted donkeys - Theo, Jean and I, and Mr. Carter and Robert walking, went up to Lady Clinton’s camp - up on the high plateau, with lovely views of pyramids, desert and cultivated plain. There were many tents - and looked most comfortable and even pretty. But if I were camping I should want square tents instead of round ones. Had such a pleasant visit. Mrs. Lythgoe went back to Girga in the afternoon - and we drove home in a howling cold wind. Lady Clinton seemed worried about Lord Clinton who is at the Mena House - with his doctor and nurse. It would be a mercy to the poor man to die, I should think. Mr. Carter tells us nothing more was found in the tomb - it was thoroughly searched and the sarcophagi are part way up the passage - as well as the canopic box. 

Wednesday, Mar. 30. 
		I had such an uncomfortable night - and found on getting up at 6 this morning that a regular Kamseen was coming on. The air was so thick that I could dimly see the opposite side of the river - and the air was amazingly hot - dangerously so it seemed. Soon the wind began, and although we did not feel its full force on this side of the house, we got enough of its noise and dust. The portar told us they had never seen here a worse condition. Theo and I went down to the boat soon after breakfast, having had Billy up to breakfast, and I packed away all the Hashepsut deposits - I had intended going into town, but it was too hot - and I came back to the big, cool rooms which we have here. We have had them before - the Khedivial rooms - huge, lofty, magnificently furnished - but too big and grand for real comfort. Mrs. Metcalfe and Mr. and Mrs. Dennis came to lunch and one of the first things the latter told us was that Lord Clinton had died last night very suddenly. We feel such sympathy for Lady Clinton - but it surely is a mercy for them all. Mrs. Dennis said Lady C. was completely overcome. This evening a note from Robert came confirming it. We all drove into town this afternoon shopped a little - had tea on the terrace at Shepheards - in all the noise and smells. Cairo is rapidly thinning. The Dennis’s sail tomorrow for America - and Mrs. Metcalfe in the same boat, Canopic; but she gets off at Naples. It is still very warm and oppressive. 

Thursday, Mar. 31. 
		Jean and I with Theodore went over to town - we left him doing dozens of things, while we went down to the bazaar to buy Mrs. Kane’s scarf. In the afternoon we went over again with Carter. Saw the Newmans at Shepheards, and took tea with them - and had a view of Ms. N’s paintings of Abu Simbal. Dr. Sandwith dined with us, and was most pleasant all the evening. 

Friday, April 1st. 
		Jean, Carter and I went to the Zoo this morning - on reaching home found Baron v. Bissing and Mr. Weigall, who stayed to lunch with us. A man from the bazaar brought over some things for us to look at and I bought enough peridotes for a necklace - which I will have mounted some day. Lady Oppenheim and another English lady came up to the sitting room and played bridge with Theo and Carter. When we got upstairs, Jean and I, I found Theo looking awfully bored. Lady Oppenheim, a handsome, quite elderly woman, with white hair, beautifully dressed, very decoletè, smoking cigarettes, with her glasses on her nose, intent upon her game, did not seem to me a lovely example of old age. 

April 2d. Saturday. 
		In town this morning for various last things. Billy was up at the hotel all the morning helping us pack - to the destruction of a favorite basket of mine, which he seized, and destroyed before I could get it from him. This afternoon we again went into town to make some parting visits - among them one to the Tytus’s in their temporary appartment. Baron v. Bissing, Mr. Weigall and Carter dined with us - a very pleasant evening. 

April 3d. Sunday, Easter. Port Said, SS. Isis. 
		We left Cairo this morning at 11:30 - a charming day. All the men were at the station to see us off - dear little Billy with them. A very comfortable journey to Port Said - and we are most comfortably settled in this fine little boat, and hope to have a good crossing. But the Indian ship bringing the mail is telegraphed almost a day late, and we will have to wait many hours for her. 

Venice - Hotel Britannia. Friday, April 8th. 
		Arrived this afternoon at 4:30 having spent last night in our old quarters at the Hotel Breen. The crossing was very fair, and we had a very pleasant company - especially Sir William Preece and his daughters. We went out immediately after our arrival in our gondolas to Salvadore’s - found little that we wanted - then went to San Marco’s - walked about the piazza and exterior - and had tea at Florians - then went into that exquisite wonderful church where a service was going on, and loitered about - walked back to the hotel. 

Saturday, April 9th. 
		A rather cold day, spent the morning at the Academia and the afternoon between Berozzi’s and the Bensons - found them about as usual. Though Mr. B. looked old and tired. Mrs. B. as crippled and suffering, but as vivacious and charming as ever. Met the daughter Miss Fletcher for the first time - an attractive, clever woman. Had tea at home - we are in the same rooms we have occupied for 4 years, each spring. 

First Sunday after Easter. 	April 10th. 
		Jean and I spent our morning at St. Marks and this afternoon we all went to the Bensons for tea, as Miss Fletcher had begged us yesterday to do. Several pleasant people were there - and among them Mrs. Humphery Ward who interested me so much. A fine delicate face - and simple unaffected manner with no consciousness of being a remarkable woman. I talked with her some time. She was especially interested in the Oxyrinthus finds of Grenfell and Hunt in Egypt - and asked me many questions about it. 

Monday, April 11th. 
		Home this morning - the afternoon spent in various antiquity shops - had tea at Florians - and then went in to St. Marks. Alice Wilson arrived from Florence this evening. Met the Stokes and talked a long time with them - and having seen Mrs. Taylor and Florence this morning, Mrs. Taylor came this evening to say goodbye. A visit too from Mr. Benson. 

Tuesday, April 12th. 
		This morning was spent at Dorigo’s and at the Museo Civico - the afternoon in making a delightful visit to Mr. and Mrs. John Humphreys Johnson, who had asked us to see their garden - away out beyond the church of Madonna San Orto quite on the outer edge of Venice - looking across the lagoon over to Burano and the snow clad Alps beyond - a charming quite, far away spot. They have bought a larger property here, extending along the canal or Rio di S. Alvin. Three large gardens are included in it - and 3 houses - the Palace Minelli in which they live is one of them, and is interesting in the extreme. They received us in one of the gardens - and we walked about the whole place, until we came to the court of their own palace. They have had the place for a year. They have no children - he is an artist - she is a rampant gardener - and they are hugely enjoying their new toy - renovating, changing and improving - with great care preserving all original features - we had tea there. Crafin Ross, Alice’s friend with whom she has been traveling, came to dine. 

Wednesday, April 13. 
	Home this morning - and in the afternoon to see Mrs. Benson and Mrs. Brown. The Hearstmans arrived today at this hotel. 

Thursday, April 14. 
		To the Academia this morning - the Miss Hearstmans with us. In the afternoon to S. Giovanni e Paolo - and then to Florians to tea. Hearstmans to dinner. Mr. and Mrs. Brown called. 

Friday, April 15. 
		The morning at Doges Palace - Hearstmans with us - afterwards to the Treasury of S. Marko - and in the afternoon we took the steam launch of this hotel and went out to Torcello, just as we did last year, the Hearstmans with us - they came to dine - Torcello was very lovely - though the day was dark and threatening. 

Saturday, April 16. 
		Visiting churches, shops etc. all day. David Costantini came this evening. 

Second Sunday after Easter. April 17. 
		Went, all of us to San Zacharia, S. Marcia della Formosa. I went at 4 o’clock to say goodbye to Mrs. Benson. Several pleasant people there - among them Prince Hohenloke, Mr. Pearsall Smith etc. 

Monday, April 18. 
		Jean and I spent the morning at Mrs. Browns - in the afternoon Alice and I went to St. Marks and spent an hour there - the rest then joined us and we had tea at Florians - we get away tomorrow, Theo and Alice to Dresden, Jean and I to Florence. 

Wednesday, April 20. 
	Hotel Grande Bretagne, Florence. 
		Breakfasted at 7 o’clock - all of us - Theo, Alice and Jones left immediately after - we had an hour and a half. The day was cold and threatening so we played bridge until it was time to start. A cold, tiring, rainy day, had to change cars at Bologna - found Nettie waiting for us, and brought her to the hotel to dine with us. So nice to have her again. Are in our old pleasant rooms. Mr. and Mrs. Havens came in this evening for awhile. 

Thursday, April 21. 
			A dark, raining day - we went early to see my dear people at the Villino, and found them so happy to see us; we stayed to lunch, and until it was time to go to tea at Costantini’s, which we had promised him yesterday we would do. Nettie went with us - and we had a very nice tea, with Pa Costantini present. They showed us the so-called Raphael portrait, a charming picture, but hardly the work of that great master. It might be by Guilio Romano. The picture has been signed, but the signature has been mostly obliterated. I never knew it to rain harder than it has most of the afternoon. Kept Nettie for dinner. Such a sad thing has occurred here this morning. Cecily Northcote, the young English girl who was staying with the Websters two summers ago in Newport and whom we know, a cousin of Farrers as well as the Websters - died with typhoid fever at the Hotel de la Ville. She came to Italy with Mr. and Mrs. Hamilton Fisk Webster two months ago - they arrived from Rome 10 days ago, quite ailing, and today the whole thing was over for the poor young thing. She was only 18! 

Friday, April 22. 
		Nettie took Jean this morning to the Uffizi to begin her art education - and Jean came home in raptures. Mary and I drove in the Cascine, and took a walk along the sweet avenue near the river. The girls were here to lunch - Mrs. and Mr. Hagermeyer called in the afternoon - and this evening Mr. and Mrs. Haven came to say goodbye. 

Saturday, April 23. 
		A letter from Theo from Munich, reports charming weather. One from McWilliams reporting most discouraging conditions of the garde. We all went to the Pitti this morning - crowds of extraordinary Germans - a delightful morning - were to go with the Hagermeyers to see the game of Pallom played at the Cascine, but the weather was too bad, so we went to the Villino for tea instead - with Mrs. H. and Miss Johnstone. 

3d Sunday after Easter -  April 24. 
		Nettie and Jean went to the Academia this morning - Mary and I to the Cascine - and had a good walk. The girls to lunch, a heavy thunder storm this afternoon - went early to the Villino and had tea - and stayed late. Am a little disturbed at Lizie’s appearance - she looks ill. A lovely sight from my window last night just before going to bed. The rain had stopped, but the moon was breaking through the clouds, and reflected in the river; and made me think of the old song the words by Longfellow I think, which I used to sing hundreds of years ago, called “the Bridge”, - the last lines of which run something like this. 
	“And forever and forever, 
	As long as the river flows, 
	As long as life hath passions
	As long as life hath woes, 
	The moon and her broken reflection, 
	And the shadows shall appear - 
	Like the image of love in heaven
	and its wavering image here. 

Monday, April 25. 
		I thought best that Nettie and Jean should have a rest today so we shopped and drove about, Nettie came to lunch, and we all, Lizzie and Mary included, went by invitation to Mrs. Newmans to tea - and had an enchanting visit. Their appartment at the top of an old palace in a quiet odd little piazza on the other side off the river, is filled with a wealth of lovely and choice things collected in a 30 years sojourn in Italy and Japan. I am always interested in these two people - so happily and quietly contented with themselves and each other - so busy, in a quiet way - and so surrounded by some if not most of the best things of life. It has poured with rain all the afternoon. 

Tuesday, April 26. 
		Mary came down, and went with us to St. Croce this morning. I never tire of this grand church - one of the most impressive I know. They are carefully washing off much of the whitewash from pillars and walls, seeking for frescoes. We afterwards drove and walked in the Cascine, and this afternoon went to Lizzie’s. She was not well last night - and felt poorly today. 

Wednesday, April 27. 
		A charming, pleasant day. The girls came early and we had almost the whole morning at the S. Maria Novella, and S. Lorenzo and the two Sacristies. Nettie lunched with us - we went to the Villino for tea, and Nettie sang gloriously for us. Soon after lunch Gio. Placci called and made a long pleasant visit - soon after he left Pearsall-Smith came. This evening we have had the most glorious roses sent us - and are almost smothered in them. 

Friday, April 29. 
		Yesterday was spent at home and tea with Mrs. Hagermeyer and with Lizzie. This morning a drive to the Cortosa, which we had all to ourselves, and in the afternoon we did the Duomo and Baptistery, had tea at the tea Room, and a turn in the Cascine - Nettie dined with us. 

Saturday, April 30. 
		To the Cobbs this morning - to see the pretty leather work. Left Nettie and Jean at S. Marco, and Mary and I drove up to the Rose Garden near S. Miniato. Such miles of splendid roses! Mr. and Mrs. Newman to lunch - pleasant. Jean and I then went out to Lettignano to have tea with the Berensons. We had been asked to lunch, but could only make it to tea. They were very amusing and interesting about their American visit. 

Fourth Sunday after Easter. May 1st. 
		Jean, Nettie and I went to the church of Santisseina Annunziata, and heard a splendid high mass. A great congregation. Then to the Villino for the day, which was a very pleasant one. Mrs. Tribe came in to tea. Jean and I drove in the Cascine, it was so very warm - but there was too great a crowd to make it pleasant. 

Monday, May 2d. 
		A warm day - Jean taking a day of rest - so Nettie and I went to the Uffizzi - the girls lunched here, and Lizzie came to tea. The weather most lovely. 

Tuesday, May 3d. 
		I sent Mary and Jean to drive in the Cascine this morning - and I stayed at home. Mary to lunch. At 4 o’clock we drove out to Mrs. Gregory Smiths - at the Villa Bella Riposa. They bought this beautiful villa 3 years ago - it has an enchanting garden - with fine view. A charming afternoon, and some pleasant people. I was so interested in some things Mrs. Smith told us - about the house. After they had bought it, they were told of a remarkable thing by the people of whom they bought it - to which they did not give much attention at first, until they heard from a church dignitary (Mrs. Smith is Catholic) that it actually had occurred, and the whole story, trial and punishment was to be found in the Florentine Archives. One of the daughters of the house loved a man the family did not with her to marry - she became a nun - but excaped from the Convent and joined the man. She was afterwards found and with her child was taken home - the Cardinal came from Florence and presided at the trial, which took place in the great hall at which all of the family were present. She was walled up between the what is now drawing room and library - and found there by the people of whom the Smiths bought the house. She was bricked up to the shoulders, and her baby laid at her feet - when the Smiths had the drawing room redecorated, the place in the wall from which she was taken, could be seen - a ghastly history! At another part of the house we were shown a little stone staircase which led to the next floor, where it had been solidly walled up - it led below to a passage which they explored as far as the gate of the Villa. Along the terrace and in the garden I noticed some terra-cotta jars 3 ft. or more high, of a very peculiar shape. There were 50 of them found in a wall of great thickness which Mr. Smith was obliged to take down in his repairs. Altogether it is a most interesting house - but I don’t think I would care for so many associations with the past in a house I lived in; so many human experiences, and such gruesome ones, would be intolerable to me. Better a clean present and a new house. A chapel and a sacristy form part of the house - from which the ancient dead however, have been removed. 














1