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quic: enable qlog, controlled by QLOGDIR env #5908

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Run time

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Job	Run time
test (s390x on IBM Z)	0s
goreleaser-check	10s
test (linux, 1.22)	2m 11s
test (linux, 1.23)	2m 13s
test (mac, 1.22)	2m 54s
test (mac, 1.23)	1m 57s
test (windows, 1.22)	4m 20s
test (windows, 1.23)	3m 53s
	17m 38s