1. For SCPH‐10350 (Thin Model)
The SCPH-10350 model Network Adapter is the "thin" variation. It only has one main board inside with one LAN port.
Since this model does not contain a modem board, it allows for the tallest 2.5-inch SATA drive to be compatible.
The 2.5-inch SATA drives come in two groups of height and 4 sizes:
- Group 1
- 7mm (very common)
- 9.5mm (very common)
- Group 2
- 12.5mm (rare)
- 15mm (only high capacity drives)
Each group has one corresponding faceplate designed for them.
Each group has two tray covers for the two different heights.
In case you plan to use two heights from the same group (very likely group 1), print the tray cover for the higher size (9.5mm or 15mm). Then print the "Tray Height Adapter" that goes on top of the lower height drive, and insert it together with that drive.
The two LED lights can be seen through the shell. Left is Link, and right is Activity.
Please note if you printed the outer shell with a very dark filament, the LEDs might not be strong enough to come through.
You can drill through the holes from inside the piece if you REALLY want to see activity if that happens
Boards
- SCPH-10350 main board (Disassembly guide below)
- SATA interface board for PS2 network adapter
- The (in)famous purple version. If you know, you know.
3D Printed shell
- STL files - Link
- Out shell (of your choice of height, color match)
- Inner Tray Cover (of your choice of height)
- Inner Tray (Long or short, of your choice)
- Tray Height Adapter (optional)
- AIO file (contains the following files, don't double print)
- Inner Shell
- Inner Spacer
- Main PCB Cover
- SATA Board Cover
Screws
- M2/M3 stainless steel hex head screw & nuts - Link
- [2x] M2x12mm screw & nut
- [1x] M3x8mm screw & nut
- [2x] M3x20mm screws
- (Optional) [2x] M3x8mm screw & nut
- However later I felt it's better NOT to secure it with screws
Cables
- Flat flex cable. 50-pin, 0.5mm pitch, 203mm(8-inch) long, type B - Link
- JST PH cable. 5-pin. - Link
- [2x] JST PH header housing
- [5x] Pre-crimped JST cable. 15cm long.
- Or just by a pre-made 15cm one. Make sure the ends are inverted.
If you wish to color-match the PS2, only the "Outer Shell" piece needs to be printed in the correct color and highest quality.
All parts have been pre-rotated to their printing-friendly orientations.
Only the iconic PS2 accent ridges on the "Outer Shell" pieces require support. In order to avoid supports everywhere else, try setting "Minimum Support Area" to 35mm^2 in order to avoid unnecessary supporting on the lettering and screw holes.
File "AIO for SCPH-10350.stl" combines the following files into one print to save you some time arranging these pieces to fit on the printing bed.
- Main PCB Cover.stl
- Inner Shell.stl
- Inner Spacer.stl
- SATA Board Cover.stl
IF you are encountering lifted corners on some of the shape angles, try the following settings in Cura (or similar ones in your own slicer software:
- Z Seam Alignment: Sharpest Corner
- Seam Corner Preference: Hide Seam
The SPECIAL version outer shell has the LAN indicators changed to actually letters. L for Link and A for Activity.
A short version of the inner tray is available. It's 1/3 smaller than the original design and saves around 30 grams of plastic.
Undo the 4 big and 2 small screws indicated in the picture. Remove the metal shielding.
Pry the clip outwards to free the main board from the metal inner chassis.
Unplug the FFC and JST header from the main board.
- The FFC connector disengages by sliding the black tab downwards from the two ends.
- It's not one of those with a flap. Do not try to pry open the black part.
- The JST header pulls down to come out. Do this after the FFC is unplugged.
There is no need to touch the IDE interface boards.
Close the metal shielding and put the screws back loosely. Then put the original shell away safely.
Both the FFC and JST cables used are different on the two sides when you lay it down flat. Make sure you bought the correct cable or you will risk damaging things!
The 8-inch flex cable is slightly longer than required but it's the only close standard length one can buy. You need to fold it in a specific way to make installation painless.
I've created a 1:1 Folding Guide you can print on paper and cut out. Make sure to:
- Print at 100% zoom.
- Measure & verify the size of the FFC print before proceeding.
Carefully follow the instructions on the guide.
Use a credit card to help folding along the lines. NEVER fold & crease the cable directly onto itself to avoid damaging the conductors inside.
Tape the two sections flat so the cable stays in a nice way for installation.
If you decided to buy parts of the cable and assemble yourself, make sure it's done properly.
Insert the cables correctly as indicated in the picture.
Make sure the headers on the two ends face DIFFERENT directions when the cables are parallel. Nothing good will come out if you made the cable in the wrong way.
NOTE: Models have been improved and the version you downloaded will look very different from the ones in the photos, but they are assembled in the same way.
Put the SATA Board Cover piece over the SATA board.
Insert both straight down into the slot.
The screw holes are for [2x] M3x8mm screw & nut, however it's totally optional and I think it's better to NOT fasten it down.
Insert both cables through the slit and out from the other end.
Note the flat side of the tray cover is the outside, and the slanted side is the inside of the PS2.
The FFC connector on the SATA board is actually a flap type connector.
Open the flap outwards, insert the FFC, and close the flap inwards.
I find it easier if you hold the tray cover up when trying to insert the FFC into the SATA board.
Make sure the JST cable is folded down and doesn't stick out up too much.
Set the main board PCB into the cavity on the "Inner Shell" piece.
Slide the "Inner Spacer" piece through the connector that goes into the PS2.
Insert [2x] M2x12mm screws through the holes on each side of the connector.
Lay over the "Main PCB Cover" on top of the main board.
Secure the 4-piece assembly by putting on the M2 nuts and [1x] M3x8mm screw & nut on top.
Slide the main board assembly through from the rounded end of the "Inner Tray" piece.
Make sure you clear the "Tray Cover" piece lying inside the tray.
Then, insert the FFC and JST power cable into the main board.
Remember the FFC connector on the main board is the sliding type. Make sure to insert the FFC all the way into the correct position, and then close the tabs from the two sides.
Insert the completed tray assembly into the PS2 drive cavity. Push it all the way in so the main board connector mates with the PS2.
Bend the FFC upwards. There is no need to make sure it stays in place, since the design of the outer shell will push it upwards into its place.
Line up the "Outer Shell" piece with the the innard and close it up.
The FFC might tend to push back the outer shell. However if it closes all the way in, it means it's ok to tighten in the screws.
Insert [2x] M3x20mm screws into the screw holes.
Tighten with a screw driver.
Do not over-tighten the screw. There will be small gaps on the top an bottom.
This is due to the PS2 body not being a straight line alone its top and bottom shell. Adding extra geometries trying to fill that gap only ends up as a few ugly layers if viewed from the side. So I elected to not fix it
Pop in a 2.5-inch hard drive and game!
If the drive appears to be difficult to pull out, add a small loop of tape to the tail of the drive to help.
