2. For SCPH‐10281 (Thick Model)
The SCPH-10281 model Network Adapter is the "thick" variation. It contains a main board, a modem board, and a RJ11 & RJ45 combo port.
Since this model has a modem board that blocks a lot of height, only the 7mm and 9.5mm 2.5-inch SATA drives are compatible.
In case you plan to use drives at different heights, print the 9.5mm tray cover. Then print the "Tray Height Adapter" that goes on top of the lower height drive, and insert it together with that drive.
Boards
- SCPH-10281 Parts (Disassembly guide below)
- Main board
- Modem board
- Combo ports
- SATA interface board for PS2 network adapter
- The (in)famous purple version. If you know, you know.
3D Printed shell
- STL files - Link
- Out shell (Color match)
- Modem Board Cover (Color match)
- Inner Tray Cover (of your choice of height)
- Inner Tray (Long or short, of your choice)
- Tray Height Adapter (optional)
- AIO file (contains the following files, don't double print)
- Inner Shell
- Inner Spacer
- Mid Frame
- SATA Board Cover
Screws
- M2/M3 stainless steel hex head screw & nuts - Link
- [2x] M3x20mm screws
- [2x] M2x8mm screw & nut
- [1x] M2x16mm screw & nut
- [1x] M2x20mm screw & nut
- (Optional) [2x] M3x8mm screw & nut for securing SATA board
- However later I felt it's better NOT to secure it with screws
Cables
- Flat flex cable. 50-pin, 0.5mm pitch, 203mm(8-inch) long, type B - Link
- JST PH cable. 5-pin. - Link
- [2x] JST PH header housing
- [5x] Pre-crimped JST cable. 15cm long.
- Or just by a pre-made 15cm one. Make sure the ends are inverted.
If you wish to color-match the PS2, only the "Outer Shell" and "Modem Board Cover" pieces need to be printed in the correct color and highest quality.
All parts have been pre-rotated to their printing-friendly orientations.
Only the iconic PS2 accent ridges on the "Outer Shell" piece require support. I suggest using the concentric patter for the support roof, as normal grid pattern tend to create ugly artifacts on the outer edge.
In order to avoid supports everywhere else, try setting "Minimum Support Area" to 35mm^2 in order to avoid unnecessary supporting on the lettering and screw holes.
File "AIO for SCPH-10281.stl" combines the following files into one print to save you some time arranging these pieces to fit on the printing bed.
- Mid Frame.stl
- Inner Shell.stl
- Inner Spacer.stl
- SATA Board Cover.stl
IF you are encountering lifted corners on some of the shape angles, try the following settings in Cura (or similar ones in your own slicer software:
- Z Seam Alignment: Sharpest Corner
- Seam Corner Preference: Hide Seam
A short version of the inner tray is available. It's 1/3 smaller than the original design and saves around 30 grams of plastic.
Undo the 4 big and 2 small screws indicated in the picture. Remove the metal shielding.
Pry the two clips outwards to free the main board from the metal inner chassis. The clips can get caught on the side of the board and make things difficult. Push the clips a bit more to free the board.
Note this end will be harder to separate due to this board to board connector.
Unplug the connectors in the indicated order.
For #1, instead of yanking on the cable, use the two tips on the sides of the plug.
For #2, slide the black tab down. This is not the flappy connector. Trying to pry it outwards may break it.
Main board is freed.
Remove the combo port.
Undo the two small screws. Unplug the modem jack cable.
Free the modem board.
There are two clips holding the board down. Push them in the indicated direction to free the corresponding corner of the board.
When lifting the board further up, the clip for holding the main board might catch the modem board. Push it outwards to free it.
Unplug the buzzer cable.
The buzzer is buried deep inside the shell and removing it feels dangerous. Therefore it's left behind with the original shell.
Keep the unnecessary parts safe. Loosely screw the metal shield back onto the shell for better storage.
Both the FFC and JST cables used are different on the two sides when you lay it down flat. Make sure you bought the correct cable or you will risk damaging things!
The 8-inch flex cable is slightly longer than required but it's the only close standard length one can buy. You need to fold it in a specific way to make installation painless.
I've created a 1:1 Folding Guide you can print on paper and cut out. Make sure to:
- Print at 100% zoom.
- Measure & verify the size of the FFC print before proceeding.
Carefully follow the instructions on the guide.
Use a credit card to help folding along the lines. NEVER fold & crease the cable directly onto itself to avoid damaging the conductors inside.
Tape the two sections flat so the cable stays in a nice way for installation.
If you decided to buy parts of the cable and assemble yourself, make sure it's done properly.
Insert the cables correctly as indicated in the picture.
Make sure the headers on the two ends face DIFFERENT directions when the cables are parallel. Nothing good will come out if you made the cable in the wrong way.
NOTE: Models have been improved and the version you downloaded will look very different from the ones in the photos, but they are assembled in the same way.
Remove the short FFC that came with the purple adapter board by opening the black flap outwards.
Put the SATA Board Cover piece over the SATA board.
Insert the piece as indicated in the picture.
Insert the folded FFC and JST power cable through the inner tray cover piece. Note the end on the front is the top one on the folding guide.
Insert the FFC all the way into the connector on the purple board and close the flap.
Then, insert the JST power cable.
Lay down the Inner Tray Cover down into the cavity.
Make sure the bends of the cables are flush with the top of the tray. Otherwise they will catch when you slide the tray into the PS2.
Insert the FFC all the way into the main board. Close the tab by sliding. Then insert the power cable.
Slide the "Inner Shell" piece from the back of the inner tray, then the "Inner Spacer". Note the orientation of the pieces as indicated in the photo.
Sit the main PCB into the "Inner Shell" piece and adjust the cables so they become flush with the board.
However, since nothing is screwed down, things will be loose for a bit. That is ok.
Put the combo port part into the "Mid Frame" piece. Tighten it down with 2 sets of M2x8mm screw & nut.
There is no need to over-tighten the screws.
Pay attention to the wider plug for RJ45. Position it so it comes out of the bottom of the frame for the insertion.
Insert the LAN plug into the main board as indicated int he photo.
Insert an M2x16mm screw through from the indicated outside hole from the "Inner Spacer" piece.
Drop an M2 nut from the other side and tighten the screw into it. Alignment is very important in this step. Have patience.
Make sure the FFC and power cable are not pinched between the Inner Shell and Mid Frame. Shove all the extra lengths into the tray cover cavity.
Plug the smaller RJ11 cable into the modem board.
Close the modem board onto the Mid Frame. Press it down into the frame so it sits flush with the frame. Make sure fitment is perfect.
Pay attention to the extra length of cables from the combo port. Shove them inside the space provided in the mid frame so they don't stick out.
Insert an M2x20mm screw through from the other hole on Inner Spacer. Again, please pay attention to the alignment.
The screw should come out of the hole as indicated.
Lay the "Modem Board Cover" piece over the modem board. Tighten an M2 nut over the screw that's sticking through.
Slide the assembly into the PS2 drive bay.
Put the Outer Shell piece over the exposed assembly.
Insert two M3x20mm screws into the holes. Tighten them down.
Simply slide the drive all the way in to install it
If the drive appears to be difficult to pull out, add a small loop of tape to the tail of the drive to help.
